2013 Summer Holidays – Campania – Part 3 – Greco di Tufo


This is the third installment of tasting notes from my summer vacation in Southern Italy, as introduced here: https://oleudsenwineblog.wordpress.com/2014/03/01/2013-summer-holidays-intro/

The time had come to taste the lovely white wines of:

Greco di Tufo

Greco is another ancient grape variety that has made its home in the Irpinia hills, and which has seen an explosion in diversity and quality much like that of fiano. It makes some lovely, highly drinkable white wines with aromas of yellow fruits, resinous herbs, ample mouthfeel, middling acidity and a hint of pleasurable, cleansing bitterness. Some do not consider it as being as noble as fiano, claiming that it has less longevity, may not express its terroir quite so forcefully – opting to Express its own varietal character more forcefully – and is a bit too ruffiano, meaning eager to please. While fiano certainly has great minerality and the potential for great terroir fidelity, I think that the detractors are being unjust towards greco. Yes, it does have a more obvious, ample fruit character, but why should that count against it? It certainly has the potential for longevity and terroir fidelity as well, and can provide fantastic drinking both when young, middle-aged and old. Again, we were tasting very young wines, so were not necessarily doing them full justice, and so again, there may be some notable absences from this list of the best. Nonetheless, of a lineup of 23 Greco di Tufos, I scored 14 wines 85 and above, which is a high percentage of good and great wine indeed.

Torricino Raone 2012
Peaches, flowers. Good acidity, full, flowers. 86

Feudi di San Gregorio 2012
Dryish nose with apples and resin. Full, with resin and herbs. 87

Macchialupo 2012
Aromatic apple and minerals. Full, hint of resin, just slightly alcholic. 85

Villa Raiano Contrada Marrotta 2012
Peaches and minerals. Full, good acidity, herbs. 88

Mastroberardino Novaserra 2012
Apples and mineral. Linear, dry, minerally. 86

Villa Raiano 2012
Peaches, minerals and acacia. Good acidity, minerals and herbs. 88

Torricino 2012
Peaches and herbs. Linear, apples, very minerally. 86

Benito Ferrara Vigna Cicogna 2012
Fairly neutral, appley nose. Very handsome in the mouth, lovely, lively, great minerals and a hint of herb. 87

I Favati Terrantica Etichetta Bianca 2012
Slightly sulphurous, overlaying peaches and apple. Dry, acidic, somewhat closed, but concentrated and built for a long life. 85

Antonio Caggiano Devon 2012
Slightly reductive, with apple and minerals. Slender, with very good acidity. 86

Di Prisco 2012
Apples, minerals and flowers. Somewhat tartaric in its acidity, minerally. 85

Montesolæ Vigna Breccia 2011
Apples, minerals, dry resin and herbs. Juicy, with dry herbs and resin. Characterful. 86

Di Meo Selezione Roberto di Meo 2010
Delicious nose with minerals and sweet apple. Consistency lovely all the way, handsome acidity, very long. 88

Mastroberardino 2008
Somewhat neutral nose with apples and minerals. Firm, dry, long, with good acidity, resin. 86

In conclusion, this was another great sitting, with some rather dazzling wines of great character and drinkability. I rejoice at how far Campania has come with this variety, and at the thought of so many great wines from it to come in future.

Yours truly
Ole

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