2013 Summer Holidays – Campania – Part 1 – Fiano di Avellino


This post features the first part of the tasting notes made while attending tastings at Tenuta Montelaura in the Irpinia hills of Campania, as introduced here: https://oleudsenwineblog.wordpress.com/2014/03/01/2013-summer-holidays-intro/

The first flight tasted was Fiano di Avellino
Fiano is going through an amazing renaissance these days. It is likely that this variety was one of the most highly appreciated by the ancient Romans two thousand years ago. That it should take this long for it to resurface among the great white varieties of the world is perhaps a bit sad, but at least we get the pleasure of seeing it evolve – not just in terms of (winemaking) quality, but also in terms of terroir identifiability and sheer diversity – before our very eyes. This is not just your everyday, light and cheerful quaffing variety; when handled properly, this variety renders wines of great stature, character, terroir and longevity. I tasted 39 Fiano di Avellino wines, with 21 wines scoring 85 and above, which is an extremely high percentage of really good wine, and testament to how far the Irpinia area has come with this variety from a start of perhaps 3 or 4 notable producers 20 years ago.

These really are wines for ageing, and so while the tastings certainly revealed many great wines, I don’t necessarily think that we could do justice to the 2012 and 2011 wines. Ideally, they should have one or two more years of bottle age before we judge them. This might explain the absence of a few otherwise illustrious producers’ wines below. The following are the wines I found worthy of mention, in the order tasted:

Feudi di San Gregorio 2012
A good, perfumed and slightly bitter wine (as it should be), perhaps thinning a bit towards the end. 85

Torricino 2012
Lovely fruity nose, firm, dry and long. Good stuff. 88

Tenuta Sarno 1860 2012
Flowery, perfumed nose, rounded and long. 85

Donnachiara 2012
Stylish, firm, minerally nose, round and broad in the mouth. Very good. 88

Villa Matilde 2012
Powerful nose with peaches, herbs and granite dust, long and dry in the mouth. Great. 90

Benito Ferrara 2012
Salty, herbal nose with mineral. Good, firm in the mouth, perfumed finish. 87

Villa Raiano 2012
Peaches, minerals and flowers. Firm and dry. Lovely. 88

Villa Raiano Alimata 2012
Slender, stylish, minerally on the nose. Slender, firm, good acidity, long. 87

Cantine di Marco Donatus 2012
Tight, salty, herbal nose. Slender, great balance, herbal finish. 86

Mastroberardino Radici 2012
Delicious nose with citrus fruits and herbs, same in the mouth, super stylish. 90

Antonio Caggiano Bèchar 2012
Powerful, delicious nose with great fruit. Long, fat and stylish. 92

Struzziero Vigna Pezze 2012
Salty nose with apricots and boiled herbs. Mineral and herbal in the mouth; interesting. 87

Vadiaperti Ai Virti 2012
Nuts, herbs, minerals. Tight, good acidity, merest hint of caramel. 86

Di Prisco 2012
Minerals, apple, herbs, good. Tight, long, minerally. 87

Cantina del Barone Particella 928 2012
Broad fruit, herbs, light caramel. Good breadth, soft. 85

Montesolæ Vigna Acquaviva 2012
Broad fruit, minerals, exotic wood. Tight, some wood influence. 86

Molettieri Apianum 2012
Discreet, good perfume, minerals, herbs. Good acidity. 87

Filadoro 2012
Minerals, herbs, apple, slight alcohol. Lovely balance, minerally. 86

Quintodecimo Exultet 2012
Lightly sulphurous nose with minerals and herbs. Lovely in the mouth, although slightly mute. 85

Rocca del Principe 2012
Apple, herbs, minerals, good. Tight, dry, herbal, handsome. 90

Mastroberardino 2012
Resin, acacia, herbs and granite. Tight, slightly bitter, herbs. 86

All in all, this was a deeply satisfying flight, showing wines of unmistakable world class. There is a glorious future ahead for Fiano from Avellino.

Yours truly
Ole

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