Uh-oh! I seem to have struck a nerve with my good friend Angelo Peretti: http://www.internetgourmet.it/2013/06/perche-bevo-i-rose-della-provenza.html?spref=fb (in Italian only, sorry):-)
Angelo and I have for some time had an intermittent and very good-humoured discussion about what constitutes a good rosé wine. Angelo is insistent that the best rosés in the world come from Provence, whereas I, as is probably far too obvious, find them too flat and alcoholic, without the freshness I expect from good rosés. My recent post https://oleudsenwineblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/15/stardust-or-why-do-people-like-provence-roses/ has prompted Angelo to write the above post on his excellent site http://www.internetgourmet.it.
Now, Angelo is not a nobody, being director of the Bardolino consortium, a respected wine judge and a noted wine and food blogger. He has an international outlook and does not suffer from the otherwise frequent campanilismo (blinkered local pride to the exclusion of anything outside view of the local church steeple) that Italians can suffer from. His blog is an excellent source of information for trends in wine both inside and outside Italy, and always well worth reading. Angelo has a quirky, humorous, yet factual and measured, style and is not afraid to write what he thinks. So when he responds to my humble post I am honoured.
I am going to take him up on his kind invitation to taste rosés with him, hopefully in the not too distant future, but in the meanwhile I felt the need to just briefly respond to one or two notions Angelo puts forth. The following is my translation into English of my response on Facebook in Italian:
“Dear Angelo. I very much agree that some Provence rosés have lovely aromas of the sweet macchia mediterranea (or maqui/garrigue) that you find there, such as lavender, almost sweet liquorice. My criticism is more on the structural elements of these rosés, which for me lack juiciness, acidity and freshness (other than the coldness that comes from the fridge), and that they are often too alcoholic. For me, elegance is mostly a structural notion, not an aromatic one, and requires linearity, a certain tightness, a special balance. For this reason I do not agree that Provence rosés are normally elegant.”
I suspect Angelo and I can discuss this till kingdom come without ever reaching consensus. Which is the way it should be. I would hate living in a world without heterogeneity and without people with whom to disagree.