Radici del Sud 2012 – Tasting Notes – Vinicola Savese/Pichierri


I revert to publishing my tasting notes from this lovely event. In my overall post on this event I already mentioned the Pichierris, writing the following:

“For decades, the Pichierri family of Sava were the only quality producer in the Apulian Manduria denomination, and while recent developments have seen a number of very good producers shoot to comparatively greater current fame, the Pichierris have continued producing their traditional wines in the time-honoured fashion. This basically means low yields, late harvest and very traditional, slightly oxidative winemaking. The resulting wines are fantastic, with raisiny, meaty and spicy aromas, and carry a slight whiff of volatile acidity with aplomb, because they are simply so concentrated. I fear that this style of winemaking, which is most certainly extremely valid, and which has historical and current kin throughout the Mediterranean, is going out of favour due to a shortsighted and history-less focus on banal fruitiness on the part of writers and non-critical audience. On the other hand, the wines are so good that if the Pichierris weren’t making them, someone else would have to invent them. […](Note that if the methods employed were used on other than the highest quality grape material, the resulting wines would be awful; don’t let my enthusiasm tempt the less than extremely scrupulous into trying this on.)”

There really isn’t much to add, except that I would expect the torrid summer of 2012 to have suited the Pichierris’ style of winemaking fantastically, and that they have reported briefly but enthusiastically about the quality of the grapes harvested. We’re likely in for some really exciting wines from this vintage in the years to come. I just love these wines and really hope that they will find a niche but highly appreciative audience forever.

My tasting notes (usual disregard for colour):

Salento Rosato Rosa del Prato 2011

This is 70% primitivo, 30% negroamaro. Particular mixture of raspberries, reductive aromas, chocolate and meat on the nose. Round and almost sweet in the mouth, but then dry. OK length with minerals and white chocolate. A very different rosé wine, definitely not in the normal Salentine mould, but clearly of the terroir and a result of the Pichierris’ dedication to doing their own thing.

Primitivo di Manduria Terrarossa 2008

Classic old-fashioned nose with plums, prune, light barnyard touch, tobacco and hints of Averna/bitter herbs. Round in the mouth, good acidity, slightly oxidized, fine tannin. Good length, repeating the aromas from the nose.

Primitivo di Manduria Tradizione del Nonno 2008

Intense, big nose with meat, tar, tobacco, spices, berries, prune and whiff of volatile acidity. Thick and firm in the mouth, biting intensity like acidic prune sauce, good tannin. Very long, slightly oxidized, very intense, tobacco, liquorice, flowers, chocolate and meat/snail. Certainly old-fashioned, and certainly a highly valid wine resulting from a long tradition.

Primitivo di Manduria Dolce Naturale Passione 2003

Huge, very complex and particular nose with mushroom soy, hoisin sauce, chocolate, prune sauce, violets, some volatile acidity providing lift. Thick and powerful in the mouth, with an intensity like cherry essence and prune sauce, dry tannins and lovely, thick sweetness. Great length, enormously complex and intense, violets, cherry essence, tobacco sauce, balsamic vinegar. This sort of thing could only be made in Apulia.

 

Yours truly

Ole

This entry was posted in Apulia, Italy, Red wine, Rosé wine, Wine, Wine producers and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

One Response to Radici del Sud 2012 – Tasting Notes – Vinicola Savese/Pichierri

  1. Bella descrizione. Il loro vino trasmette anche il calore della loro terra e la filosofia con cui se ne prendono cura.

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